In many ways the work of a critic is easy.We risk very little, yet enjoy a position over those who offer up their work and theirselves to our judgement.We thrive upon negative criticism which is fun to write and to read / But the better truth we critics must face is that in the grand scheme of things ,the average piece of junk is probably more meaningful than our criticism and designating is so. But there are times when a critic truly risks something and that is in discovery and defense of the new. The world is often unkind to new talents,new creations. the new needs friends. Last night. I experienced something new, an extraordinary meal from a singularly unexpected source. To say that both the meal and its maker have challenged my preconceptions about fine cooking, is a gross understatement. They have rocked me to my core. In the past.. I have made no secret of my disdain for Chef Gusteau's famous motto,"Anyone can cook".But I realize only now do I truly understand what he meant. Not everyone can become a great artist, but a great artist can come from anywhere. It is difficult to imagine more humbler origins than those of the genius now cooking at Gusteau's, who is in this critics opinion, nothing less than the finest chef in France. I will be returning to Gusteau's soon hungry for more...
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